To the north of Australia is the nation of Indonesia. Indonesia is the second most biologically diverse country in the world. It is considered one of the 17 “megadiverse” countries, with two of the world’s 25 biodiversity “hotspots”, 18 of the World Wildlife Fund’s “Global 200” ecoregions and 24 of the Bird Life International’s “Endemic Bird Areas”. Indonesia has a large diversity of ecosystems, which includes tropical forests, coral reefs and mangrove ecosystems. It is home to some 1,700 bird species, by some measures, some 17% of the total species in the world! Therefore, for a birder or a naturalist there are many great reasons to visit this country, although it is impossible to see all or most of this diversity in any one trip.
I have planned a two-week plus birding and natural history trip that takes place on both sides of Wallace’s line. This is a line that runs north to south separating Bali and Java to the west and Lombok, Sumbawa, Komodo and Flores to the east. This separation divides two faunal zones; that of Asia to the west and Australian to the east. The separation is not perfect, as it is more a line in the middle of a zone of transition, however to the east of the line we have species of birds more familiar to Australian eyes: honeyeaters, cockatoos, lorikeets, monarch flycatchers, whistlers – to name a few. While to the west we encounter barbets, woodpeckers, trogons, hornbills as well as babblers, tits, minivets and bulbuls!
We will be birding in Bali and eastern Java for ten days before flying to the island of Flores. Here we will explore the eastern end of the island before having a day trip to Komodo Island. We will have a local guide for the entire duration of the tour.
ITINERARY IN BRIEF
Day 1 [31 August] Depart Brisbane and arrive Bali
Day 2 [1 September] Southern Bali Birding
Day 3 [2 September] Central Bali Birding [Batukaru and Jatiluwih Rice Terraces]
Day 4 [3 September] Central Bali Birding ARU [Bedugul Botanic Gardens]
Day 5 [4 September] Bedugul to Bali Barat National Park
Day 6 [5 September] Bali Barat National Park
Day 7 [6 September] Bali Barat National Park to Java – Ijien Nature Reserve
Day 8 [7 September] Ijien Nature Reserve
Day 9 [8 September] Ijien Nature Reserve to Alas Purwo National Park
Day 10 [9 September] Alas Purwo National Park
Day 11 [10 September] Alas Purwo National Park to Denpasar
Day 12 [11 September] Denpasar Fly to Labuan Bajo, Flores. Day 13 [12 September] Labuan Bajo, Flores to Ruteng
Day 14 [13 September] Ruteng birding – Golo Lusang and Rana Mesel
Day 15 [14 September] Ruteng via Pagal to Labuan Bajo, Flores
Day 16 [15 September] Labuan Bajo, Flores – Komodo Island Day Trip
Day 17 [16 September] Labuan Bajo, Flores – Return flight to Bali. Day 18 [17 September] Afternoon flight to Brisbane, Australia.
[Snorkelling Day trip option on the 17th pushing back the day of departure one day for those interested.]
ITINERARY IN DETAIL
Day 1 [31 August 2024] Arrive in Bali
We depart Brisbane this morning on a Virgin flight [suggested] at 9-40am, arriving at 2-15pm Bali time.
We will transfer to our accommodation before [perhaps] an hour’s birding in and around our accommodation to try to begin our Indonesian bird list.
Overnight at Swissbell Hotel or at similar accommodation in Nusa Dua
Day 2 [1 September 2024] NUSA DUA
Today we have an easy day on our first full day in Bali, concentrating on the southern end of the island.
After an early breakfast at our hotel we drive a short distance to the Nusa Dua Lagoons. Here, as to be expected, are a range of waterfowl, herons, cormorants, and some interesting passerines. Expect to see Wandering Whistling Duck, Sunda Teal, White-breasted Waterhen, Little Black, Little Pied and Little Cormorants, Black-crowned Night Heron, Javan Pond-Heron, Great Egret, Purple Heron, Small Blue and Collared Kingfishers, Blue tailed Bee-eater, Freckle-breasted Woodpecker, Golden-bellied Gerygone, White -shouldered Triller, Common Iora, Malaysian Pied Fantail, Black Drongo, Olive-backed Tailorbird [below right], Bar-winged Prinia, Pacific Swallow, Yellow-vented Bulbul, Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker [below left], Ornate and Brown-throated Sunbirds, Eurasian Tree Sparrow.
In between times we may bird some mangrove forests and some coastal areas.
In the mid-afternoon we will travel to the extreme south-west of the island to visit the Uluwatu Temple area. Uluwatu Temple is a Balinese Hindu sea temple built at the edge of a 70-meter-high cliff. Around the cliffs we should see a range of swift species such as House, Cave and White nest Swiftlets, Pacific Swallows. Out to sea we could be rewarded with White tailed Tropicbird, Brown Booby, Lesser Frigatebird [although both Greater and Christmas Island have been recorded] plus a range of tern species. Javan Myna and Black-winged Starling have also been recorded in the vicinity. We will stay at Uluwatu for a cultural performance at 630pm before heading to a nearby restaurant for dinner.
o/n Overnight at Swissbell Hotel or at similar accommodation in Nusa Dua
Day 3 [2 September 2024] NUSA DUA - CENTRAL BALI (BATUKARU)
After an early breakfast we will head north into Bali’s interior, aiming for Mount Batukaru Nature Reserve. Mt. Batukaru is Bali’s second highest peak [behind Gunung [Mountain] Agung]. The Mount Batukaru Nature Reserve exists to protect some of the forests that cover the forest’s slopes. We will begin at the Pura Luhur Batukaru temple, a Balinese Hindu Temple. According to ebird over 140 species have been recorded in the vicinity!
We will spend the morning searching for such species as Green Junglefowl, Black-naped Fruit-dove Yellow-eared, Linneated and Flame-fronted Barbets [below right], Scarlet Minivet, Greater Racquet-tailed and Ashy Drongos, Horsefield’s Babbler, White-crowned Forktail, Orange-bellied and Blood-breasted Flowerpeckers, Javan Sunbird among others.
In the afternoon we will visit the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces. Jatiluwih’s carefully carved terraces are among the most beautiful rice terraces on the planet and thanks to Bali’s complex irrigation system, the Subak System, they are also a UNESCO world heritage site.
Overnight at CLV Hotel in Bedugul
Day 4 [3 September 2024] BATUKARU - BEDUGUL
After breakfast drives up to the highland of Bedugul . Morning birding at the Bali Botanical garden [pictured above], before afternoon birding at some nearby sites.
The Bedugul area features the Bali Botanic Garden, which at nearly 160 hectares, is the largest botanic garden in Indonesia. It is situated around 1300 metres above sea level overlooking Bratan Lake and the Ulun Danu Temple on the slopes of Tapak Hill.
According to ebird the Bedugul area has had some 175 bird species recorded. In the gardens we should see species such as Ruddy and Little Cuckoo-Doves, Grey-cheeked Green-Pigeon, Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon, Plaintive, Brush and Sunda Cuckoos, Cave Swiftlet, Yellow-eared and Flame-fronted Barbets, Brown Honeyeater [the only honeyeater that crosses Wallace’s line], Scarlet Minivet, Javan Cuckooshrike, Rusty-breasted Whistler, Black-naped Oriole, Black-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Ashy Drongo, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Cinereous Tit, Sunda and Mountain Leaf Warblers [above left], Mountain Tailorbird, Crescent-chested Babbler [above right], Javan Scimitar-Babbler, Short-tailed Starling, Fulvous-chested Jungle-Flycatcher, Lesser Shortwing, Little Pied Flycatcher and Blood-breasted Flowerpecker.
Occasionally we will scan above the gardens in the hope of seeing a Crested Serpent-Eagle [above left] or a Black Eagle or, best of all, a Javan Hawk-Eagle [above right]!
In the afternoon we will try a few nearby forest trails for some of the Bali-Java endemics as well as scanning the nearby Bratan Lake.
Overnight at CLV Hotel in Bedugul
Day 5 [4 September 2024] BEDUGUL - BALI BARAT
After [or perhaps before] breakfast we will do some more birding at the Bali Botanical garden. Mid-morning we may have to reluctantly leave Bedugul and begin our longish drive towards Bali Barat in the island’s west. We will be birding along the way.
Overnight at Mimpi Indah Resort
Day 6 [5 September 2024] BALI BARAT NATIONAL PARK
Today we have a full day’s birding in Bali Barat National Park.
Over 200 species have been recorded here. We will search for Green Junglefowl, Asian Emerald Dove, a few green pigeon species, namely Pink-necked, Orange-breasted and Grey cheeked, Black-naped Fruit-dove, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Grey-rumped Treeswift, Lesser Adjutant [Stork], Changeable Hawk-eagle, Blue-tailed and Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters, a variety of Kingfishers, Black-thighed Falconet, Small Minivet, Fulvous chested Jungle-flycatcher, the endemic and endangered Bali Myna [above left], Black -winged Starling, and, if we are lucky, the Javan Banded Pitta [previous right].
Overnight at Mimpi Indah Resort
Day 7 [6 September 2024] BALI BARAT - GILIMANUK - IJEN
After breakfast we head west for Java. At Gilimanuk we travel by Ferry across the strait to Ketapang on eastern Java, before driving onwards to Ijen. Near the coast we will keep our eyes open for terns, herons and storks; perhaps even a Lesser Adjutant!
In the afternoon we will begin looking for wildlife and birds in the Ijen Nature reserve. The Ijien Nature Reserve protects an area of decent hill forest where many of the montane Javana endemics can be found. We will be concentrating on an area with good walkways through forests over 1000 metres above sea level.
One of the key targets at this location is the Grey breasted Partridge [below left], an Eastern Javan endemic.
Overnight at Grand Harvest Resort
Day 8 7 September 2024 IJEN NATURE RESERVE
Today we have a full days birding in the in Ijen Nature Reserve.
There is a great variety of species representing a diversity of Asian bird families.
Key species include Javan Hawk-Eagle, White-bellied Fantail, Grey-breasted Partridge, Green Junglefowl, Javan Bush Warbler, Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon, Pink-headed Fruit Dove, Little & Ruddy Cuckoo-doves, Wreathed Hornbill, Javan Banded Pitta, Scaly Thrush, Black-banded Barbet, Yellow-eared Barbet, Flame-fronted Barbet, Javan & Blue Whistling Thrushes, Pale Blue Flycatcher, Checker-throated Woodpecker, Grey & Buff Woodpecker, Crimson-winged Woodpecker, Javan (White-crowned) Forktail, Crescent-chested Babbler, White-bibbed Babbler, Horsfield’s Babbler, Large Wren-Babbler, Pygmy Cupwing, Javan Scimitar-babbler; Lesser Shortwing, Orange-breasted Trogon, Javan Owlet, Javan Frogmouth, Javan Leafbird, Javan Grey-throated White-eye, Warbling White-eye, Javan Bulbul, Orange-spotted Bulbul, Blood-breasted Flowerpecker, White-flanked Sunbird, Sunda Thrush, Temminck’s Babbler, Orange-headed Thrush.
Overnight at Grand Harvest Resort
Day 9 [8 September 2024] IJEN - ALAS PURWO NATIONAL PARK
After breakfast we drive three hours to Alas Purwo National Park.
This park, covering 43,420 hectares, has a variety of habitats: mangroves, savannahs, lowland monsoon forests and coral-fringed beaches. It is home to a range of rare and endangered species that include Banteng (Bos javanicus) [above left], Dhole or Asiatic Wild Dog (Cuon alpinus) [below right], Silver Langurs, and Green Peafowl[below left]. The forests are also home for Long-tailed Macaques, Eastern Javan Langur, Rusa Deer [above right], Leopard, and Leopard Cat.
In the Javanese language, Alas Purwo literally means “Ancient Forest or The Premordial Forest”. According to local legend, Alas Purwo was the site where the earth first emerged from the ocean. Many seeking spiritual enlightenment and mystics flock here during the month of Suro, the Javanese New Year. These pilgrims come to meditate in caves such as the Gua Istana (Palace Cave), Gua Putri (the Princess’s Cave), Gua Padepokan (the assembly house cave), and also Gua Macan (Tiger Cave). Pura Giri Selokah, a Hindu temple in the park, also attracts many pilgrims, especially during the Hindu sacred ritual of Pagerwesi.
We will spend our first afternoon searching for birds and mammals. Overnight at the homestay inside of the park
Day 10 [9 September 2024] ALAS PURWO NATIONAL PARK
We spend the full day in the area of Alas Purwo National Park.
Over 140 species of bird have been recorded in the park, including Green Peafowl, Red and Green Junglefowls, Green and Dark-backed Imperial Pigeons, Red-billed and Chestnut breasted Malkohas, Lesser Adjutant, Oriental Pied and Wreathed Hornbill, Banded Kingfisher [below right], Yellow-eared and Black-banded Barbets, 11 species of Woodpecker including Javan Flameback and Great Slaty, Banded Broadbill [below left], Javan Cuckooshrike, Maroon-breasted Philentoma, Greater Racquet-tailed Drongo, Javan Bulbul, and many more!
Overnight at the homestay inside of the park
Day 11 [10 September 2024] ALAS PURWO - GILIMANUK - DENPASAR
Today we have a long drive back, about six hours, to Denpasar along the south coast of Bali.
Overnight at Harris Tuban Hotel near airport
Day 12 [11 September 2024] DENPASAR - FLY TO LABUAN BAJO/MBELILING
After breakfast we head to the airport for our flight to Flores. Upon arriving in Labuan Bajo, on the western coast of Flores, we will head further east to the Mbeliling Lodge where we will bird in the afternoon and stay a night.
Here we will search for Flame-breasted Sunbird, Golden-rumped Flowerpecker, White-rumped Kingfisher, Flores Monarch, Flores Drongo, Thick-billed White-eye, Brown-capped Fantail, Rusty-breasted Whistler, Flores Crow, Flores Minivet, Leaf Lorikeet, Wallacean Cuckooshrike, Dark-crowned White-eye, Little Cuckoo-Dove, Elegant Pitta, Red cheeked Parrot, and, maybe with luck, a Wallace’s Hanging Parrot!
Overnight at Mbeliling Ecolodge
Day 13 [12 September 2024] LABUAN BAJO/ MBELILING - RUTENG – RANAMESE LAKE
Today we drive further east towards the town of Ruteng, birding along the way.
In the afternoon and evening we will bird around Rana Mese. This small lake (Rana Mese) lies around 20km east of Ruteng on the main road to Bajawa. The lake is surrounded by good condition forest which can be accessed by either birding along the main road or from any number of smaller side trails that leave the main road.
The forest in this area holds many birds, including the possibility of Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon, Black-backed Fruit Dove, Barred & Ruddy Cuckoo Dove, White-rumped Kingfisher, Pale-shouldered Cicadabird, Flores Minivet, Bare-throated Whistler, Brown-capped Fantail, Russet-capped Tesia, Timor Leaf-warbler, Flores White-eye, White-browed White-eye, Dark-crowned White-eye, Helmeted Friarbird, Sunda Honeyeater, Golden-rumped Flowerpecker, Blood-breasted Flowerpecker, Five-coloured Munia (in more open areas). The lake itself often holds Pacific Black Duck and Little Grebe.
Tonight we will search for Flores and Wallace’s Scops-Owl among other nocturnal species.
Accommodation to be determined
Day 14 13 September 2024 RUTENG – GOLO LUSANG/RANAMESEL
We have a full day birding the Ruteng area.
Our morning birding will take us to the Golo Lusang area. This site lies around 8km south of Ruteng. Birds here are similar to those at Danau Rana Mese, but the views are more impressive, the dawn chorus of Bare-throated Whistlers is memorable! And Flores Shortwing and Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch are also possible.
Accommodation to be determined
Day 15 [14 September 2024] RUTENG - PAGAL - LABUAN BAJO
This morning you will check-out from the accommodation, trip continues birding near Pagal, before returning to Labuan Bajo. Naturally we will bird along the way.
Near Pagal we will search for Bonelis Eagle, Crested Heleia, Chestnut-backed Trush, Dark-backed Imperial-Pigeon, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Sunda Cuckoo, Elegant Pitta, Flores Green Pigeon, Tenggara Whistler, Wallace’s Hanging-parrot and other species.
Overnight at Puri Sari Hotel
Day 16 15 September 2024 LABUAN BAJO - KOMODO ISLAND - RETURNING LABUAN BAJO
Departing early morning we will board a speedboat and head for Komodo Island. In addition to the Komodo Dragons we will search for Yellow-crested Cockatoo, Pied Imperial-Pigeon, Asian Koel, Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Green Junglefowl, Varied Goshawk, Brown Goshawk, Brahminy Kite, Lemon-bellied White-eye, Black-nape Monarch, Barred Dove, Sunda Collared-Dove, Flores Spangled Drongo, Black-naped Oriole, Large-billed Crow and many other common birds.
Following our birding we will transfer to a pink sand beach and we have the option for some excellent snorkelling.
After lunch we will return to Labuan Bajo
If time permits we may do sightseeing around Labuan Bajo and enjoy a spectacular sunset.
Overnight at Puri sari Hotel
Day 17 16 September 2024 LABUAN BAJO - FLY RETURNING TO DENPASAR
This morning, our last on Flores we can bird at Dolat wetlands. This seasonal wetland is around 4 km south of Labuan Bajo. During the dry season the fields will probably not be flooded, but the area is still interesting for a look around. Birds possible include Wandering Whistling-duck, Sunda Teal (look out for the rarer Australian Grey Teal amongst them), Javan Plover, Malaysian Plover and Beach Thick-knee (on the beach), Yellow-spectacled White-eye [below left], Flame-breasted Sunbird [below right], Black-fronted Flowerpecker, Black-faced Munia, Timor Zebra Finch and Barred Dove. Rails and crakes could also be a possibility. Stork-billed, Small Blue and Common Kingfishers can also feature around the mangrove dominated channels and pools. Elegant Pitta is sometimes present in remnant forest patches.
We will return to Bali this afternoon on the 1-45pm flight with Batik Air.
Tonight we will enjoy our end of trip dinner and our final bird call! And we say our farewells to our guide, Nurlin.
Day 18 17 September 2024
Our Indonesian Bird Guide: Nurlin Djuni Sorevaya
Nurlin Djuni is an experienced Indonesian birding and tour guide from the island of Sulawesi. He began his own birding company, Malia Tour & Travel, in 2010. He is the owner and principal guide. He is known for his knowledge and love of birds. As the picture shows he has a reputation for being smiley!
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